FAQ


Q: Does the tool carry a warranty?
A: The Ol' Joint Jigger™ carries a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Full credit is given as long as tool is returned within 30 days of purchase in like-new condition and intact.

Q: What is the tool constructed of?
A: The base is made of 3/16" industrial quality steel, profiled by a CNC robotics laser. The shaft/arbor is made of hardened steel. The bushing block is of billet aluminum and the bushings are made of bronze. The protractor is laser-engraved for accuracy and durability. 

Q: Why is the base powder-coated and the T-clamp assembly zinc-plated rather than just painting them?
A: Powder-coating and zinc-plating are more durable than painting. Powder-coating becomes "part of" the steel instead of a thin layer like paint. The T-clamp assembly cannot be powder-coated as this would interfere with the smooth operation of the threads. The clamp is plated with zinc black, and the T-handle with zinc yellow.

Q: Does the tool require any special maintenance?
A: Only the lubrication of moving parts. The bushing block has bronze bushings which may wear out in time, but are replaceable. Bushings will last longer if the user takes care to push the drill straight in; don't "lean down" on the drill. We always have replacement parts in stock. An optional needle bearing block is available and recommended for production work.

Q: Why do you use hardened steel instead of stainless steel for the arbor/shaft?
A: Two reasons. First, stainless steel costs much more both in material cost and machining cost. It is more difficult to work with from a manufacturing standpoint and would be simply overkill for this application. Secondly, stainless steel does not react well with other metals when placed under speed or friction. If the arbor/shaft were made of stainless steel, it is possible that would "seize like an engine with no oil" with non-stainless parts that are around it as the shaft heats up when in use. Both bushing block and arbor are ruined if this occurs. Even extra lubrication would not prevent this from happening. Hardened steel does not react with other metals in this manner. It is the best steel for this application.

Q: Why would I ever need to purchase the optional large-threaded arbor/shaft?
A: The basic unit is sold with a standard ½"-20 thread arbor/shaft and a 5/8"-18 thread adapter. Smaller hole saws (9/16" to 1-1/8") will thread directly onto the standard arbor/shaft. The thread adapter is needed for attaching larger hole saws (1-1/4" to 2") which have the 5/8"-18 thread. The optional arbor is manufactured with the larger 5/8"-18 thread and is recommended if the user is routinely working with saws larger than 1-1/8", especially when working in production.

Q: Why are bushings standard equipment and roller (needle) bearings optional?
A: Contrary to popular belief, bushings are best for a smooth, chatter-free, accurate notch. Needle bearings have tiny spaces in order to roll properly. These gaps can cause some chatter and possibly a minuscule loss of accuracy. That is why we recommend them for production work only.

Q: Will the tool notch materials like 4130 Chrome-Moly steel, stainless steel, titanium?
A: Yes. Our tool will handle metal pipe or tubing up to 2" O.D. How well the notcher works on these materials is a function of the hole saws used (not included), not the tool itself. Difficult-to-cut materials like those above will shorten saw life somewhat, but replacement saws are inexpensive. We sell the Lenox brand hole saws as they have given the best results, but any good bi-metal hole saw will work. You must apply lubrication (preferably cutting oil) on all materials, especially those listed above to maintain optimum performance. 

Q: How many notches will the saw cut?
A: Again, this is a function of the saw (not included). In thin-walled mild steel tubing, we have had Lenox brand saws last over 100 notches. Cuts made to harder materials such as 4130 chrome-moly steel, stainless steel and titanium will shorten the saw life somewhat. Keys are lubrication and slow feed rate (20-30 seconds for each notch is recommended). 

Q: How do I know what size of hole saw to use?
A: You must use the same size of hole saw as the pipe or tubing you are attaching to. For instance, if you have a piece of 1" pipe that you are attaching to 2" pipe, you would use the 2" hole saw. Remember to measure the outside diameter (O.D.) of the pipe.

Q: Why are no hole saws sold with the unit?
A: We never know what size of hole saw each user will need. We sell high quality Lenox saws from 9/16" through 2". It would dramatically increase the price of the RTN100 if we were to include all these saws with the purchase. A buyer who would only be working with one size pipe/tubing would be forced to buy saws he/she would never use. We can include the specific sizes of saws the user will need with their order, or they can be purchased separately at a later time, either from us or their local tool supply company.

Q: How do I mount the tool for use?
A: Works best bolted or clamped with a vise on the left side of a workbench and powered with a ½" chuck hand drill. This leaves the right open for more pipes, lubricant and tools. May be mounted on right side or center of a workbench or onto a drill press with our optional universal mount. Minimum drill press requirements: 1/3 HP with 3½"- 4" travel and 14" from the drill press base to the chuck.